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ALL YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Everything you wanted to know about building an AR15 kit....Read this FIRST!

If this picture will get you to read about how building an AR15 works, so be it!

Lots of options and possibilities!

Whatever it takes to keep you from winding up like this-->
We're all over it

Remember: "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of a low price has faded." Some may think they are price shopping our "competitors" similar looking ads and sometimes wonder why M&A is 5 or 10 bucks higher on certain things. Other than really fast shipping, refer to the rule stated above. Simply put: We don't believe that we have any competitors. Read the below information- it describes who we are and what we sell. Do not call us and ask us to describe other company's products. Go ask them the questions that you will have learned about from this written tutorial.

Here's the deal: We sell parts "kits". A complete rifle/carbine kit includes everything except your stripped lower receiver.

So what different ways can I get started?

If you are beginning your AR15 collection, you would likely start out buying a KIT. To any of our kits, all you need to get on your own would be any USGI dimensioned stripped lower receiver... that is- a receiver devoid of any parts. Remember- in any M&A KIT, you're going to get all of the other parts you'll need except for the magazine and bullets. You can customize any KIT at the time of order just be requesting this-or-that part as a substitute.

You may go out to your local gun store and obtain your lower in a ‘built up’ or ‘complete’ configuration, meaning it has the stock affixed and all of the lower parts plugged in already. This is entirely your decision, but you’ll be paying a substantial premium for that service- well above the cost if you had bought a ‘complete kit’ from M&A (versus simply a barreled upper). Putting the lower parts into your receiver is an easy task. Any doubts? We sell the USGI manual and it doesn’t get much easier than that. Information on assembly in a step-by-step format is on the internet, as well.

If you already have an operational AR, but want a different type of shooting, you might buy a "barreled upper". You can use your own bolt carrier assembly and charging handle, or you might specify that you also wanted to add a new bolt carrier group and charging handle to go with your barreled upper.

What's a lower receiver, then?

A “Lower Receiver” is what is defined by the ATF and the US Govt as the firearm itself. It is the chunk of metal that has the serial number on it. You have to purchase this from an FFL (Gun Dealer) or an individual, in a face to face transaction, often from someone within your state of residence.

It is the piece into which you insert (from your M&A Kit) the trigger, hammer, mag catch, etc., and attach the pistol grip and the stock. When you obtain your lower recvr, it will be a chunk of metal with a number of holes in it. But still, that’s the “gun” as defined by law.

Can you sell me a lower receiver?

We do not sell lower receivers, period. Flip through the pages of Shotgun News or www.gunbroker.com and you will see many advertisements for them. They run from $85 to $300 and as long as it’s a forged receiver, they all pretty much so work the same. Will M&A Parts fit your receiver? They should, but it’s really not our question to answer. If you are buying a receiver made to exact AR15 specifications, you will have no issues as our parts are indeed made to those specs. We are prohibited, by a peculiar quirk of law, from recommending any particular lower or manufacturer. We can say, however, that certain manufacturers finish their lowers in the same Black Hard-coat Anodized MilSpec finish as does LMT (see below). They are DPMS, DSA, and Rock River among others.

Skip this next paragraph if you don't have a Colt lower receiver...

Sometimes, when Colt has a bad day, they manufacture what is politely called a "large pin lower". Most would call it a reject. They come from a hole drilling placement error, so they just center it up in the right place and drill it out bigger. Instead of a proper .250" diameter hole (as our uppers have), you get a front pivot pin hole in the lower that is .312" diameter. Simple solution? Get the $5 Colt Offset Pin. It will adapt any standard USGI dimensioned upper to any Colt "large pivot pin" lower. When they're really having a bad day, they redrill the .154" hammer/trigger pin holes and create "large pin" hammers, disconnectors and triggers, along with the 2 appropriate .169" large pins to secure them. We don't have the 9mm versions. These are internal parts in the lower, and that's probably a non-issue, as you already have a working set. However, we do have them. If you have a Colt large pin upper and want to mate it to someone's USGI dimensioned lower, we also have the "sleeve" to do that, as well.

5.56 is the same as .223, right?

.223 is the civilan designation of 5.56, but it is not the same. Our barrels are chambered for 5.56 NATO. This means that you can go out and buy inexpensive surplus ammo and shoot for cheap. You can also use .223 if you wish. You do not have this either/or option on a .223 chambered barrel because 5.56 primers have been known to blow back and foul the lower receiver's function. That is why we do 5.56 chambering. (Your civilian test gauges are not going to work on these)

Who makes M&A's stuff?

99% of the folks that call here and ask that question have no clue what the answer "should be". I always wonder~ what answer could I give that would make you happy?

Easy example- Q: Who makes you barrels? A: Wilson Match Grade. When a caller is seemingly happy with that answer, we remind them that half the world utilizes barrel blanks from Wilson, the other half from Shaw. The real question is: who machines the barrel blanks into the finished product? Ask the other guys these questions, but understand that you must ask the correct question. And- as the attornies know... always know the answer to the question before you ask it!

Most of our uppers are from Lewis Machine and Tool (LMT) unless specified otherwise as being Rock River (Pistol) and VARs come from DPMS. Our barrels are Wilson Match Grade 4140 Chrome Moly unless otherwise noted. LMT cuts, finishes and chambers the barrels. LMT assembles, times, headspaces, chambers and function test fires each barreled upper (not every third or fifth one as some suppliers might) and all of the other minor parts included are from current US Govt contract machine shops. The same first-rate US Govt contractor that we have always used for the bolt/carrier assemblies is still our supplier. They prefer anonymity. While we absolutely stand by and attest to the above, know that most of our component parts are "sanitized", that is- without marks, for obvious reasons when you consider the nature of the needs of the larger section of our customer base.

We do not have a machine shop in a Quonset hut "out back" full of men turning out consumer grade parts. Again- we buy our parts by the pallet from current US Government Contract Parts Houses. Then- a lot of respected rifle manufacturers buy their parts from us. That's why we just smile when someone says, "Don't build a "parts gun", buy one from a rifle company". Truth be known- they're all parts guns.

What about 9mm?

Your going to get a 9 mm Rock River barreled upper when you buy from M&A. Here's how 9mm works: If you have a functional CAR AR15, you'll need to change out to a 9mm Hammer and Buffer, adding a drop-in mag-well adapter. (M16? It uses the same hammer) Our kits use the old std Colt USGI mags or the converted UZI mags (which do not "hold open"). When threaded they are 1/2x36. We also have excellent Orlite looking lock open mags from FAI.

Why not just buy a complete rifle?

Remember- the reason we are in business is due to a Federal Law that is very friendly to the individual shooter. If a guy that is in business for profit merely screws a pistol grip to a complete lower, he must collect from you an 11% Federal Excise Tax. Buy a stripped lower, you do the rest, Save the $$$$

Tools?

That 3 Point Stock Wrench ($10) is about the only tool that you might "need" to have, but the Pivot Pin Install and Removal tools are also nice ($11). There are lots of other tools available from M&A, but you can make do without if you are just doing one build. Other handy tools include the HandGuard Removal Tool, and the upper and lower receiver vise clamp/block. You already own a hammer and punches, right?

How much do these configurations weigh when compared to each other?

Here's a few ballpark approximations to get you going. All of these weights are in pounds, for a4 FlatTop no-ban configurations of the barreled upper. (No, not with bolt and carrier or carry handle!)

WEIGHTS: CAR 16" 3.64; MidLength 4.0; LtWt 2.90; m4 16" 3.26; 24" Varmint 7.35, fluted 6.63 ,20" Varmint 6.60, fluted 5.34; 16" Varmint 4.45, fluted 4.05; CAR 10.25" 3.07. Note that since the war, fluting has become unavailable on most configurations.

And what about barrels?

Our barrels are chrome-moly 4140 steel Wilson Match Grade unless otherwise specified. The US Govt buys hard chrome lined barrels. They do this because they want a service life of 8,000+ rounds and are not as concerned about the accuracy issues. The most consistent barrels are the Stainless, then not far behind is Chrome Moly steel, then way down on the list is chrome lined. We sell a lot of gear to individuals in ‘the Sandbox’ and they always specify chrome moly. We offer hard Chrome lined barrels as on an E2 Kit or B/U, an EMCO manufactured (inspected, and spec'd out) A2 20” 1:7 only. Surprisingly, when stainless is requested by our customers in the war zone, they ask for the .950” Varmint 16” barrels and then use bake-on laquer to alter the looks and reflectivity- buy that stuff from Brownells.

In short, chrome lining is not needed unless you're going full auto, Save your dough. If you want the real deal, we sell LMT short barreled configurations. Read my prolonged rant on this subject in our FAQ section. Chrome bolts and carriers are to solve a problem that doesn't exist. Save your money.

Heavy or Light under the Handguard?

.750" Heavy all the way, up and back: CAR, MidLength, and E2 20" only. M4, light under the HG.

Is it "headspaced"?

Simply put, when you buy any barreled upper or "barrel only" (from M&A), your barrel comes headspaced. This is because the actual headspacing comes from the barrel extension part, which is installed by LMT before they funtion test-fire each unit that M&A furnishes. Many folks buy barrels from other places not understanding that they may not come with the critical element that supplies headspacing: that barrel exstenstion. M&A's barrel configurations always do! They are spec'd out to operate with a bolt (and carrier) that are within Mil spec. Your civilian test gauges are not going to work, here. Put them away. Buy any barrel from M&A and as long as your existing bolt is within spec, you'll be fine. A competent gunsmith (with military gauges) is the best arbiter of how good your bolt is.

What are all of the various configurations that I can select?

You're going to have to decide first if you want the classic a2 style carry handle upper, or if you would prefer the modern a4 Flat Top Upper. The a2 comes with the standard 8/3 rear a2 sight, the Flat Top comes with 1913 Picatinny rails milled into the top and is used to build a weapon of the a3 class.

The 16” Carbines consist of the “CAR” hb, which has a round, short hand-guard (7.2") with a thick barrel diameter underneath. Then there is the “Light-Weight” which has a thinner barrel profile. The most unusual carbine configuration is the “M4” which is the current type that is Govt. Issue. It is thin under the hand-guards, then, just in front of the standard A2 site base/gas block, there is a barrel reduction band for mounting of the military grenade launcher. The M4 forward hand-guard is fatter, thicker and oval shaped- it is double insulated- some shooters really prefer this size and heft of this forward furniture hand-guards. The gas block/site-base area is .750” diameter and all feature threaded barrels and bayo lugs if pre ban style.

The Mid-Length is also 16”, but it has the increased site radius, that is the distance between rear and front site is longer, also making the hand-guard longer at 9.5". It is a Rock River product. A true midlength such as this increases reliability of function simply because of the longer gas tubes. Other "look-alikes" do not provide this advantage. The XM Style is patterened after the USGI XM177 and it has an 11.5” barrel with a permanently attached 5.5” flash hider- just like the USGI version, making it legal under NFA 1934 as a regular rifle- no extra paperwork required.This configuration was designed to increase the backpressure to make existing short barrels more reliable in military use. Essentialy you have the accuracy of an 11" barrel with a 16" length- but you do get a lot of blast and fire coming out the pointy end. It insures better functionality and reliability for full auto.

The Varmint kits feature .950” Stainless Steel Barrels and come in 16, 20 and 24” and are Wilson barreled Rock Rivers or DPMS depending upon the availablities. We believe that they are of equal qualities. Instead of the free floated tube handguard, you can upgrade to a 4-rail free-float picatinny rail handguard. Refer to internet sources regarding bullet weights, specific charges and loads, to make specific choices in barrel length. We gear everything to the 5.56 military/L.E. shooter, so they selected the 1:8 twist that we produce. The barrels are no more accurate, other than they are in Stainless. The weight is the key... it dampens rifle movement from the instant in time that you squeeze the trigger until the bullet exits. A lot of forces at work- reduced by the greater weight. It's no more complicated than that. Accuracy would go out the window if they had any muzzle devices, so we don't thread them.

The E2 rifle kit in 20 or 24” and the DCM are well known standards of the industry. If you are a competitive shooter or have a flair for the older look, this might be the way to go for you. They come standard with round handguards (12") but they will also accept your antique triangulars. You may also opt for an EMCO 20" Chrome lined 1:7 A2 Barrel as an upgrade.

Twist Rates?

They are expressed in Complete Rotations per Inches in Barrel Length. Certain bullet weights are best for each. For 5.56 caliber, our standard Chrome Moly's are 1:9 and use 40>55 grain bullets, and Stainless Steel 1:8 uses 55>62 grain. Our Hard Chrome 1:7 Barrels use 62>69 grain. We do not offer twist rates in materials other than as stated.

What is a "Barrel Only"?

Most folks really won't buy a Barrel Only, instead they will buy a Barreled Upper (see above), but here's your answer: A "Barrel (assembly) Only", when it's from M&A, will include the barrel itself, an A2 front site base/gas block (not the sight post assembly itself), the barrel nut, the barrel extension (timed and headspaced), and the handguard cap. They will be threaded or crowned, as you specify, but they will not have a flash hider, crush washer, handguard, gas tube, delta ring assembly, sling swivel and all of the other stuff. They are more than what you get from most houses when you order just a barrel, but then again, we are a bit different. Most folks don't order "just" barrels alone. Read on...

What's a "Complete Front Group"?

Simply stated, it's everything forward of the upper receiver. Read the above "barrel only" description and add the flash suppressor, gas tube, handguard, sight post, etc. as appropriate to the barrel in question. Call for pricing, but this usually adds about $55 to the barrel-only price.

Bayonets?

We have them, but remember the Carbine configuration is simply not designed for one. (Try an E2) They will indeed fit on most any carbine, but they might rattle or cause fit concerns. They will simply not work on an XM177 or our civilian version, the “XM”. See our website for other bayos for older rifles.

So I'm limited to the configurations as advertised?

Our kits are merely a starting point. We try to include as much as possible in our webpages to show substitutions and options, but it does get cumbersome. If you see it in our catalog, internet or sdvertisements... it can and will be substituted-in at your request. If you look at our ads in Shotgun News, you’ll see the box marked ‘options and upgrades’, both under the column for full kits as well as barreled uppers. Anything you can change-out on a barreled upper, you can also request in the "kit" version.

How about Butt Stocks?

Any of our kits that come with collapsible stocks are furnished with the standard CAR 5 Position collapsible stock. This stock (as well as the optional M4 stock) is a lot easier to install with a CAR Stock Wrench. (Remember that collapsable stocks pretty much so only work on 16" guns)

We can substitute any number of different stocks, starting with the simple, an M4 stock which is stronger, longer and less prone to breakage than it’s progenitor, the CAR fiberlite stock. The M4 is made of a plastic (similar to Delrin, as used on your FasTex Buckles) that is more flexible, has a thicker barrel, comes standard in a four position adjustable (or optional 6 pos.), and the butt-plate is the same size as an A2. If you’re on an entry tac team, this is an obvious choice. We also offer LMT SopMOD, ACE Skeleton, ACE M4 SOCOM and VLTOR. Search our website with the word "saddle" and check out the amazing item that turns any m4 into a SopMOD featured stock.

And forward Hand Guards, too?

Hand-guards including Picatinny rails: both free floated or snap-in replacement type for your forward hand-guard furniture are the next step. We can swap out the standard A2 forward sight base for Picatinny rail gas blocks, or ones with flip-up front sites, or even use the Spectre gas block. That’s about the size of ½ a walnut shell, it hugs the barrel and has no site fixture. You mount the site on the rail of the hand-guard, and while you’re at it, you could use a mid or rifle length free floated aluminum Picatinny rail hand-guard on your 16” CAR, a most unusual look where the hand-guard rail stops just short of the muzzle, becoming a great part of your hardware for an ‘entry team’.

Standard USGI dimensioned Hand Guards measure 7.2" for the Carbine Class, 9.5" for the MidLength, and 12" for the standard Rifle configuration. Free floated rails can be of different lengths.

On a flat top, A4 upper, I'm going to need a rear sight system?

Rear sites are next, and on a flat top, you have several options. The key to mounting a red dot, such as the EoTech or AimPoint is to have the optical site system co-witness with the mechanical iron sites. In other words: as you look thru the rear peep A2 type site, the red dot should hover at the tip of your front site post. A Flip Up rear such as the A2ERS, the #40 ARMS, or the YHM is the optimum choice for entry teams, and the four aperature MAD (Multi Aperture Detachable) site is worthy of consideration for any counter sniper shooter. Either way, relying on an electronic site with no mechanical back-up is probably (and advisedly) not allowed by most departmental standards. Battery storage can be provided in your pistol grip, or better within a specialized butt-stock (SOPMOD), but that’s a lot of fumbling around to deploy and install fresh batteries (and we do recommend the AA battery powered type sights!).

If you know that you will someday move up to an optical site, but money is tight, you would still do well to order your upper as an A4 flat top, but also request a flip-up rear site.

You may opt for a detachable USGI Forged A2 Carry Handle and use it as your rear site system until you get your rifle build closer to completion, but why not just spend the same money on the flip-up sight, something you'll need and keep later on?.

Picatinny rail? Same as a Weaver, right?

No it aint. Simply stated? Picatinny accessories will not fit a Weaver rail, but Weaver will fit a Picatinny. All of our rail systems and optional steel gas blocks are, of course, 1913 Picatinny (named after the famous arsenal). Most, if not all, of our accessories are Picatinny based. (MIL-STD-1913(AR)3 February 1995)

I can get better muzzle control by hanging onto the rifle with my leading hand, right?

Vertical fore-grips are useful on entry weapons. You don’t have to have a Picatinny rail hand-guard, although they are the strongest method. You can easily mount them onto an existing standard handguard with any one of several Picatinny rails (2”, 4”, and full length rifle) that can be simply through-bolted to your forward furniture.

How do I mount lights?

It is then a simple matter to mount a Surefire Nitrolon G2 light using a First Samco Flashlight holder. If you correctly position the fore-grip and the light’s rear button, activation of the light can be achieved simply by squeezing your lead hand. No need for expensive pigtail pressure switches and the snagging hazards that they pose. K.I.S.S.! SureFire flashlights will be authorized to be on this website soon, but you can call now with yor needs. It's the single best flashlight being made.

And slings?

During training, we teach and preach single point (dog collar) slings which work well with our TAC Plates. Most of our students are entry team guys, not patrol. Two different missions, no doubt. We have several other slings for more prolonged wear.

How about "Defensive Knives"?

The folding tactical knife that we sell and are very comfortable with is the Ernest Emerson WAVE. Call us for any BlackHawk product, and we carry a full line. SureFire flashlights are also on this website. It's the single best flashlight being made. We also feature Comp-Tac holsters which are easily ordered for any custom application.

I hear you offer various discounts?

Military and L.E. discounts are for active duty military/National Guard, or sworn law enforcement. If we ship to a police department or military installation (NO APO’s), we will automatically discount on any phoned-in order. (This can not be done via the internet). If you want shipment to any other address, we will need a readable faxed copy of your military id or sworn l.e. id. This discount applies to any barreled a4 upper, kit, and when ordered at the same time, minor parts and accessories as well. This is not done as a reward, but instead it is to make up for the lousy pay to risk your life for us. Thanks, Brothers.

Discount? Did you say DISCOUNT?

Dealer discounts begin in quantities of 5 pieces (barreled a4 uppers, complete kits, mix and match) $15 off on each depending on what you want. Call and we’ll work that out with you.

How about us "little guys"?

Even though the greatest part of our business supplying stateside commercial accounts in bulk, we are always eager to help out individual shooters. Calls on satellite phones from Iraq take precedence, so always announce that fact if it is the case. We don't want to run up your minutes!

What about accuracy?

How accurate are the kits? Probably better than you, maybe just as good as you, unlikely that you could shoot better than they would allow you. What is the guarantee? Essentially, there is none. It’s better described as how we treat our customers. We’re not in the business of pissing people off. If you discover a manufacturing defect that is present at the time you receive the parts, we want you to call and let us know. It is in our interest to know right away if there’s a glitch in the machining process. We will direct you how to return the item to us for inspection and exchange.

Any guarantees in life?

Generally speaking, what we sell stays sold. People like what we are providing. If you want “purty” guns, you know where to go. If you use the weapon for your living and life, know that others like you get the same parts, quality and service and have a lot of sand blowing in their young, but wise faces, or drive Crown Vics with cheap hubcaps. We fix our problems, the few that there are. And try not to whine if we give you a free upgrade if we’re out of stock on something. That’s all I can manage to say about that.

What about technical specs?

In regards to barrel twist rates and other specifics, look into other resources, including the book “Black Rifle II” for specific technical information. Also go to the web. We have data that our customer/operators have provided that say in the barrels that they specify from us, 1:9 is ideal for 40>69 grain and will do well up to 77 grain; 1:8 for 63-69 gr; and 1:7 for 55-80 gr; 1:12 40gr. If it's offered on our website, it is so stated. If not, then: no. Hand-loaders and other experts may have other opinions. Muzzle threading on the 5.56 is 1/2x28.

Run USGI ammo through these for optimum performance. Do not expect stellar performance from "green" ammunition (bullets that are non lead, tungsten, wood or made from shredded and compressed shredded 2 liter pop bottles).

And shipping?

Our shipping is by UPS Ground unless otherwise requested. We charge exact UPS cost, plus the cost of the box, and give “the kids” $1 to $3 for wrapping it depending upon the size of the order- they wrap things pretty carefully! In the “lower 48”, a complete kit is $22-24 and most barreled uppers are $21. A "double" parts order doesn't cost much additional for shipping. Small parts (and small orders) cost a minimum of 1# for UPS. This is not a profit center for us, and if you think UPS is cheap, you are wrong. If you are in Alaska or Hawaii, you know the drill. We can do overnite, 2 day, 3 day, etc. at an extra charge. Most orders are shipped the same day they are paid for. We make every effort to do this, but it is not an absolute guarantee. On some configurations we are out 7 working days, which is still better than anyone else you might call. We'll try like hell to get your stuff in your hands right away.

At these prices, we can't afford to cock around sending e-mails or calling with UPS tracking numbers. Just sit tight and you will be pleasantly surprised by our shipping speed. Additional services cost us money, and our repeat customers rely on our quick ship policy and just watch for the Big Brown Truck. Once again- nothing goes out of here later than 7 days after the order is made, and your account is not charged until the phoned-in order is in process. Usually, shipping is a lot quicker than any 7 days!

Out of stock?

There's a war on. We get our stuff from where the military gets theirs. They get first dibs. Do the math. Of the quality suppliers that we deal with, we get no 7.62x39 and very little 9mm this week. Fluted barrels pretty much so aint happening. We try to flag these items by putting the price at $999 and adding a :( to the listing. This is an effort to keep y'all from ordering what we haven't got. Sometimes it works. We will update this website when these items become available. No- we don't backorder!

You will sign for any order that includes NFA items, and anything over $100 is signature required unless you specify otherwise- and then you're on your own. Remeber, you have to make a claim for any insurance damages if any package is broken... at the time you receive it!

How can I pay for this stuff?

We take Visa, MasterCard, Discover, Certified Funds, Money Order, first born children. No COD’s, trades for wives, etc. Personal checks are held for 10 working days. We do not provide UPS tracking numbers unless you call or e-mail in for them after the shipment has been made. Remember that they do not appear in the UPS system until 6-10 hrs after we hand them to the driver in the afternoon.

Other calibers than 5.56?

9mm has been pretty scarce, 7.62x39 just simply aint happening right now. All of our suppliers are of the kind that are being used by Uncle Sam, so the push is on for .556 If you want 9mm and you see that we have it in stock, make your move. It's looking like a no-go on US Military adopting the 6.8 round, so ammo prices will continue to be higher than an elephant's ass and twice as stinky. Fuggeddaboutit.

What about legalities?

Any barrel length of less than 16” (we offer 14.5", 10" & 11.5”) may be ordered by anyone, as well as M16 internal parts and hi-cap mags. Know this: The instant you sign for it you may be committing a felony, cop, military or whatever. Know the laws! Unless you have a registered NFA (or pistol) Lower, don’t bother, the crime aint worth the time! You yourself are absolutely responsible for knowing any law, State, Local, Federal and Condo Association law that applies. DO NOT look to us for advice!

You may be able to receive a less than 16" configuration if you have a registered SBR lower or have no AR15 lowers. You will have to check with the ATF to be sure. You can not accept delivery of any machine gun (m16) internal part (hammer, trigger, disconnector, selector, bolt carrier, sear, etc) unless you have a registered machine gun lower or ATF paperwork. Once again, check with them. This applies to military, law enforcement, Dick Tracy and Buck Freakin' Rodgers. Mere possession of any m16 internal part is a going away felony, and you won't be bunking with Martha Stuart.

Quoting regs: "A machine gun is....or a combination of parts for assembling a machine gun, or a part or set of parts for converting a gun into a machine gun." You figure it out, we can't.

The Federal Assault Weapons Ban (AWB) may have sunsetted, but your locality may demand those standards or even stricter. We still provide US Federal AWB compliant configurations, and quite honestly, they offer the best muzzle crown exit geometry of any possible. 5.56 bullets fly well out of 11 degree target crowns (which also lurk underneath ‘mock’ flash suppressors that we offer under “Ban Compliant” versions), something to consider!

Pre-Ban or "No-Ban" is the way to describe a barreled upper that has the wicked, evil threaded barrel (that will accept the nasty flash suppressor), or the bayonet lug (perfect for stabbing Bambi). You decide.

What about more information?

You can peruse our web site, but also know that we have a downloadable copy of our old printed 4 color catalog. It can be downloaded by clicking on it in the lower left hand corner of the web page. Note well the advisory that the prices shown in that downloadable catalog for many larger items are no longer valid. Check the main website here or call. Also see Shotgun News/Gun List for rotating ads that variously feature rail and mount systems, tools, or furniture and stocks.

Fine print department:

As with any such offering here, know that since this is a new website, we reserve the right to correct descriptions and prices that may be incorrect here before we agree to sell. We think it's pretty accurate and will fly, but then again, that's what M.M.Johnson figured back with his Model 1941 Assault rifle.

Whew. Enough already.

Doc

Special Projects Unit



STRIKE International Training Systems,

a wholly owned subsidiary of M&A Parts